TheWineRambler "A German wine label is one of the things life's too short for" - Kingsley Amis



Egon Müller, Kanta Riesling, 2006

Posted by Torsten 13 Jun 2010

After all those German and Austrian Rieslings, we are now going Australia. Clearly, the Wine Rambler is no nationalist. What could be more Australian, apart from Paul 'Crocodile Dundee' Hogan perhaps, than a Riesling from Adelaide Hills? Well, actually, it is sort of German too - at least the winemaker is (no one would have guess from the name 'Egon Müller').

Egon Müller is a very well know estate at the Saar, almost exclusively focussing on Riesling. It is family owned and has for several generations been headed by Egon Müller. In order not to confuse things further, they like to number their Egons; the current one is Egon Müller IV. Müllers also own vineyards in Slovakia and in Australia. The latter is where the Kanta Riesling comes from.

The colour is a pale gold, going white around the edges. The bouquet was very reserved at first, with the aromas only slowly coming through and never getting very intense: vegetal aromas, for instance celeriac; some overripe exotic fruit and peach; green apples; a hint of petrol; and elderflower-straw-honey-tea - all smelling decidedly green and not very strong at all. You had to really concentrate to identify these aromas. Still good, but lacking vibrancy, perhaps.

On the tongue we got it again, this decidedly green, vegetal impression. This Riesling certainly had a dry bitterness to it, again with a hint of celeriac, and something almost tannic. However, it also got mineral and citrus, with the Riesling trademark peach. The citrus was most notable in the finish, where it was complemented by smoky flavours, leading into a fairly long finish that again was surprisingly bitter.

If you read our blog regularly, you will by now have realised that this Riesling was a little different to the ones we usually have. It took me a little while to get used to the dry bitterness, but I then I did actually like it. If you can warm to this style, you will find it well balanced; robust at its core, but delicate in terms of aromas and flavours. It seems to me this would make it a good food companion, perhaps with a more delicate fish dish?