TheWineRambler "A German wine label is one of the things life's too short for" - Kingsley Amis



Reinhold Haart, Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, Riesling Auslese, 2007

Posted by Torsten 09 May 2012

Following Julian's recent debacle with a Württemberg Riesling I felt our shocked and terrified readership is in need of comfort and reassurance. Will the Wine Rambler now drink Liebfraumilch only? Has German Riesling failed? Will Modern Talking re-unite? The world may indeed be doomed, I won't dare speculate what Dieter Bohlen might do, but I can assure you that German Riesling has not gone bad.

And to give us some comfort after the shocking events of last episode, here is a classic: Riesling Auslese from the Mosel.

A Wine Rambler favourite and regular on this blog, I don't have to say much about the Haart family. They have been making wine since at least 1337 and so far their (mostly sweet and off-dry) Riesling has proven to us that they have clearly learned a few tricks during those centuries. They are also a friendly bunch (see how I work hard on comforting you after Julian's traumatic post), so if you ever are near the Mosel, visit the village of Piesport and ask for a tasting and tour of the cellars. And when you do, make sure to, erm, borrow some of the aged wine there and pass it on to me. No questions asked. Small brown envelop. You know the drill.

Anyway, the 2007 Riesling. Still too young of course for a wine of this calibre, but sometimes the need of the many outweighs the concern of the few. A lovely bouquet of raspberry purée, stone fruit and delicate herbal notes is nicely balanced by aromas of wet tennis ball (yes, it balances lovely!) caramelised (almost slightly burned) toffee apple and a touch of vegetable to keep it interesting. Very promising, especially if you give it some time. And with time this (relative) youngster shows itself as a very well constructed Riesling harmony that balances juicy fruitiness (citrus, peach melba, raspberry) with a lively elegance, a touch of creaminess, good minerality and a long finish. Did I say balance?

The world may very well be doomed, but with pure delight in the glass who cares?

Oh Mosel

I second your remarks regarding the Haarts. Last time I was there I had to stop Haart Jr from opening more than 12 bottles, because my schedule was in serious jeopardy already. I remember that he went to get an Spätlese from 03 and it was already great. I just wish I had got more bottles back then. If I am not mistaken I have a few Spätlesen and Auslesen from Haart's 2010 which I can hardly wait for. But isnt that part of all the fun?

Sometimes I guess there are those days when one thinks why try something new when you just want a sure winner for one's palate. That was my reasoning for opening a Molitor Riesling Kabinett yesterday, my first one from the 2010 batch in my cellar. And it was all good.


Oh Mosel!

It sounds like you had a great time during your Mosel visit! So did we when we visited Haart and Molitor a few years ago, but it has been too long and should be repeated soon, I think. I really like the '03 Spätlese, especially the "basic" Piesporter Spätlese that to me at the time was a great example for a wine with excellent value. It seems I need to get some 2010 Molitor then, thanks for sharing!