Martin Müllen, Weißer Burgunder, 2004

Martin Müllen, Weißer Burgunder, 2004

I cannot drink, or even think of, this wine without the memories coming back. It was a couple of years ago, and almost summer, and the Wine Rambler committee visited the Mosel. One of our stops was the village of Traben-Trarbach, where we visited the Müllen winery - and we got more than we bargained for. The full story is better to be told over a glass of Riesling, but very generous tasting samples that kept and kept and kept coming are part of it. And stories that kept and kept and kept coming. And there was a bit about a cat. We sampled many Rieslings that day, different styles too, and also a few other varieties. Among them was an impressive Pinot Blanc, a Weißburgunder, and today I opened the last bottle.

Actually, I would have prefered to keep that last bottle a little longer, but I was concerned about how well the wine would hold up - after all I had to store it in a wardrobe for one and a half years -, and tonight is the night. The nose is still very fresh, lots of green apple and acidity, also mineral and, almost overripe, melon. With a little air the aromas become smoother, focussing more on creamy (hazel)nut and, my standard reaction to Pinot Blanc it seems, blue Nivea hand lotion.

On the palate the wine is actually very similar to the nose, starting with fresh, crisp apple acidity to become smoother and end in a more creamy finish that, I hasten to add, still has tingly acidity and a bit of spicy to it.

It is quite interesting thinking back to the last time I tasted this wine - it was in August 2008, when we opened this as part of a wine tasting with friends. I remember the mineral and hazelnut, and that I thought it was very round and smooth. Today it seems a little less smooth, not as well rounded as I remember it - much fresher, almost fizzy and crisp. If this is my memory playing tricks, the way wine and wine tasters change, even on the same evening, or just the effects of another year of ageing under less than ideal conditions I cannot say.

What I can say is that I still like this wine. I am sure it will be terrific with the nutty risotto I will cook later.

This Müllen Weißburgunder is not old enough to classify as one of the gold ol' boys, but over the next few months we will try a few much older wines from Müllen. I am already excited!