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Holger Koch, Grauburgunder Herrenstück, 2008

Sun-kissed Baden, the southernmost of Germany's wine growing regions, specialises on Pinots: Pinot Noir, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Gris/Grigio (or Spätburgunder, Weißburgunder and Grauburgunder), and for some reason we have so far only reviewed Spät- und Weißburgunder from Baden on the Wine Rambler. So it was high time to open a bottle of Grauburgunder and and do some reviewing - and this time it was not just me, but a group of British wine drinkers who joined the London Wine Rambler for a night of fun yesterday.

The nose of Holger Koch's Pinot promised a certain buttery and nutty creaminess with a little bit of fresh apple and a very vague hint of speck. A very dry wine, the Herrenstück still has a decent amount of fruit that make it fresh and not too heavy on the tongue, with some mineral and very noticeable acidity, which surprised me a little bit. The wine also retains some creaminess, especially in the finish.

Holger Koch's Herrenstück was quite liked by the audience, even though a few (including me) felt that it had maybe a little too much acidity. I would rather think of it as a food wine, because without food the acidity bugged me a little, which is why I do not rate it as high as it otherwise could have been. However, if you like that it may be your wine.

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