Jean-Paul Brun, Moulin a Vent "Terres Dorées", 2009

Jean-Paul Brun, Moulin a Vent "Terres Dorées", 2009

On the Wine Rambler's project to look into regional french reds from time to time, Beaujolais is an obvious, but also daring choice. Obvious, because: Who doesn't know Beaujolais? Daring, because: Who doesn't know Beaujolais is mostly thin and second-rate, to say nothing of that awful testimony to the power of marketing over taste, Beaujolais primeur.

Liberté, Egalité and Beaujolais
Liberté, Egalité and Beaujolais

But let's give the defendant his fair chance to speak up for himself, shall we?

All sorts of red berries and cherries in this offering from Jean-Paul Brun, faintly stony, and with dry notes of meat broth and herbs in the background. On the palate, it's berries again, with sweet liquorice and a trace of nougat on the finish. Comes very light on tannins, but with wonderful freshness and surprising power.

I liked it, not least for its low alcohol, even if I couldn't make a lot of sense of it: It's not so completely unlike a good Pinot in aromatics, but seems to be constructed differently. Backbone and depth don't come from tannins, but from a mysterious meaty, smoky substance. Is it minerality that's driving this? Certainly, an interesting enough tasting experience to keep on Beaujolais's case.


Submitted by Vimpressionniste Wednesday, 30/03/2011

That's a very nice Beaujolais you chose to start with :)
The '09 vintage is considered the best EVER in Beaujolais and JP Brun is a star. On paper, your Moulin a Vent should be a cellar wine (I would've expected more tannin). I'm saving my Domaine du Vissoux and Jean-Marc Burgaud for later, but Lapierre's natural Morgon wines are just too delicious right now.

Submitted by torsten Thursday, 31/03/2011

In reply to by Vimpressionniste

To be perfectly honest, I don't know very much about Beaujolais, so I appreciate both Julian's work to broaden the Wine Rambler's horizon and your knowledgeable comments, Didier. Right now I feel like looking more into English wine, but when it is Beaujolais time again I do now know where to start -- thanks both!

Submitted by Julian Thursday, 31/03/2011

Indeed! I had my pen and notepad out the moment I saw Didier's comment.