Salwey, Silvaner Spätlese, Kirchberg *** 2005

It is still 2009, the year of the Silvaner grape in Germany - and the Wine Rambler is of course drinking Silvaner. After a full committee meeting last Saturday enjoyed an outstanding Silvaner from Franconia, the London branch of the Wine Rambler jumped right back into Silvaner, this time with a more aged wine - another outstanding example of what a competent winemaker can do with this grape.

Tonight's Silvaner comes from Baden, the sun-blessed South Western corner of Germany. I bought it almost two years ago and tonight seemed as good as any night to see how the wine has developed into.

First the nose: an exciting smell of green apples, candied citrus fruit, caramel and herbs - and all of that within seconds after opening the bottle; add to that a little paraffin wax that brings saturation into the otherwise smooth mix. This Silvaner is a very honest wine in the sense that what you smell is what you taste- all very smooth though, well rounded, but also with substance and a hint of earthiness that gives the wine body and texture. A pleasant and long finish that appears to be somewhat more rough than the wine itself adds just the right kick.

I really like this mix of fresh, aged, smooth and (almost) rough - it all comes together very well and produces one of the best Silvaners I have ever had; were it not for the Juliusspital last Saturday I would say this here is the best. So I am torn, but even if the Franconian wine may have a little more potential, this baby here is quite something. And boy is it juicy!