Weingut Ruck, Grauburgunder trocken, 2010

Weingut Ruck, Grauburgunder trocken, 2010

One day, I will invite other wine bloggers to contribute to an anthology of awkward introductions to simple wine reviews. The things that you ponder, and then reject, so as not to have to jump in with a straight "Here is a Franconian Pinot Gris that I had recently". One thing that struck me just now, while thinking of something new to write, was how often I, while recalling a tasting experience to put together a review, will sip on a completely different wine. Today, it's Dr. Heyden's very proper old vine-Silvaner from 2009. Then, I ruminated on the pun-producing potential of the Ruck winery's name, since it means something like "jolt" or "lurch" in German.

I thought of former German president Roman Herzog's 1997 speech in which he demanded "durch Deutschland muss ein Ruck gehen" ("A jolt needs to go through Germany"), of the strangeness of this image, and whether it could be put to some kind of humoristic use vis-a-vis the Ruck family of Iphofen, Franconia. But then name jokes are off limits in serious journalism, which led me to the question whether the Wine Rambler actually...

Anyway, here is a Franconian Pinot Gris that I had recently. Its colour: pale straw, so pale that it seemed to go uncommonly into an onion skin direction. Its nose: Fresh, not quite ripe pears. Not pears for eating, but pears for pressing as juice or fermenting or distilling ("Mostbirne"). A somewhat defensive and tight nose at this point. On the palate, apples and pears again, the small, not too sugary ones, fresh acidity, a rough-edged, spiky fellow with every sinew taut, quite uncompromisingly dry, to the point of austerity.

Summing up, a very good and steely food companion that I found to lack a little loveliness for solo consumption. The "decent"-rating will probably turn out over time to have been too conservative, but this one will need a little time to round out its edges. Then, we'll talk more.


Submitted by torsten Tuesday, 15/11/2011

Re-reading your review after our recent tasting of 2010 wines in Munich, I find the reference to the rough-edged acidity very interesting. After all, quite a few of the white wines we sampled on Monday could be described in similar terms. Seeing as some of the winemakers present commented on how much the 2010 wines still develop and improve in terms of drinkability it should be very interesting to try another bottle of this in a year or two.

Also, for the record I'd like to add that I pondered to add a few puns to this comment, but after you cited Roman Herzog I feel I have been outdone before I even started.