Karlheinz Schneider, Riesling trocken, 2010

My co-rambler is away, ostensibly vacationing in an undisclosed location in Cornwall, but I can reveal that he is really working on a piece of investigative journalism to reveal the craziness of some German wine makers. Like you, I don't have the faintest idea what may be coming. Anything from mild eccentricities to all-out insanity could be on the ticket.

Here's one thing I know about German wine makers, though (segue alert!): They can make quality dry Riesling at crazy prices. Case in point: Karlheinz Schneider, an all but unknown producer from the Nahe, itself an all but unknown region (excepting Dönnhoff!) in the rest of the world.

For a paltry sum, Schneider will put onto your table a Riesling of unreproachable decency: A nose of green apples and unripe pears, not so much the classic peach and apricot of many dry Rieslings. But there are traces of underlying minerality in it, and a dry chalkiness that promises straight Riesling performance.

And that is not long in coming: Citrussy (that a word?) acidity that is tightly wound, but not overpowering, some beeswax, a little dusty, a little stony. Refreshing and solidly made, if a little one-dimensional.

Not a monster of depth and polish, then, nor a bottle to keep for the grandchildren, but for 4,90€, who's complaining? A recommendation, if you get the chance.