Reichsrat von Buhl, Forster Pechstein, Riesling GG, 2008

Is it wrong to celebrate two Rieslings in a row? After Julian's ecstatic praise of an off-dry Saar Riesling I am now getting all excited about a dry specimen from the Pfalz. While I may ask for your forgiveness for presenting yet another German Riesling, the grand cru Reichsrat von Buhl needs no excuse - even if it was caught stealing from the cookie jar repeatedly. Yes, it is that good.

And it has a striking advantage over its friend from the Saar: you can get it outside of Germany too!

International representation is something von Buhl wines are used to. They have, after all, been shown at world trade fairs and even made it to the opening ceremony of the Suez Channel. The history of the winery also has a political side. It was founded by a member of parliament (Franz Peter Buhl) and the second owner even made it into the privy council of the Bavarian kings - which is where the title "Reichsrat" comes from. Today the winery is owned by Japanese businessmen, but it still has an outstanding reputation for Riesling. And you gotta love the robust German label in the colours of the Imperial War Flag - black, red and white - or those of Marlboro; take your pick.

Luckily, the Riesling smells neither of war nor of cigarette smoke. Now, there is a hint of smoke in the bouquet, but it just adds the right level of character to the wine's lovely and deep fruit aromas (stone fruit, ripe pear, a touch of orange peel) and goes nicely with the mineral and flavoursome vegetable touch (hint of potato peel and a touch of celeriac). Deep, cool, enticing.
The Riesling feels as deep and full of character on your tongue as the bouquet promises. It is focussed, deep and precise, but also mouth-filling and enticing. Somehow the Pechstein manages to tread the fine balance between joy-to-drink and captivating/serious. There is focussed acidity that tingles you gum and a fantastic crisp and very very long mineral finish, but there a also juicy, almost creamy moments with fruit and a touch of vanilla.

Not only is this the best Riesling I had in a long while, I also believe it will get even better if you give it another couple of years. Stunning.