Winzerhof Burrlein, Mainstockheimer Hofstück, Silvaner Kabinett trocken, 2009

If I am not mistaken, our readers have had to go without Wine Rambler Silvaner coverage since August 31. That is clearly unacceptable and will be remedied as follows ("quickly and unbureaucratically", as german public officials are fond of saying): The Burrlein winery of Mainstockheim, which we have already featured as part of our Müller-Thurgau report, has consistently turned out over-achieving quality Silvaners to its large customer base these last few years. Has it delivered again?

It has. Their 2009 dry Kabinett brings a smell of ripe apple, with a touch of muscat in what is, for a Kabinett, an unusually opulent nose. It brings unsuspected density on the palate as well, with minerality that goes beyond vegetal to end on what I thought of as a soy sauce note, with a hint of liquorice sweetness in the earthy punch. I suspect that this Kabinett has been downgraded and is, technically at least, a Spätlese in disguise. A bit less power and a bit more polish I would not have minded, but this strong, well-built Silvaner was a treat with veal escalopes and potato salad nonetheless. Excellent value, too.