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For a mercifully long time, you have had no updates on this Wine Rambler's hare-brained and underfunded quest to find impressive and affordable Pinot Noir from Burgundy. I don't deceive myself that many of our readers more wise to the world of wine have secretly hoped that I would have given up, Burgundy being a region for deep-dyed aficionados only. Au contraire, my friends, and tonight, it is time for a new installment in this ongoing story of quixotic determination and befuddled ignorance.

It was up to Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier this time. Could this bottle of Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru finally be the one to open the floodgates to all that near-orgasmic Burgundy magic?

Erm, no: Deep cherry red, I could smell marinated sour cherries, some alcohol, a bit of animal wildness lurking in the background, but neither exciting nor very deep nose, I'm sorry to say. Suprisingly light on the palate, but with assertive tannin, robustly acidic, it refused to release much of the fruit, flavour or attractiveness I had hoped for.

An enjoyable wine, in the sense that I cannot imagine a Pinot Noir not being enjoyable with food. Solidly underwhelming, in other words. Is it me? Is it Burgundy? Was it way too young to drink? Well, no one said it would be easy. While I recover from this disappointment, watch this space until next time around.