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Zehnthof Luckert, Sulzfelder Maustal Silvaner Kabinett trocken "Alte Reben", 2008

Zehnthof Luckert has put out a masterly collection of wines in 2008. After the explosively fruity dry Muskateller, the earthy and rich Müller-Thurgau, this old vine-Silvaner brings some more thunder (and these are all from the affordable section...).

Nice deep straw colour, almost a golden tinge. Smells of ripe pears, peaches, ginger. More peachy and Riesling-like on the second day.
In the mouth, ripe apples and peaches, textbook earthy minerality, quite creamy and rich, but with good acidity, vibrant, that great ginger spiciness again, and - is that curry? Not over-typical for Silvaner, as it could easily pass for a unusually creamy and spicy Riesling, but that doesn't take anything away.

Finally, the fact that this fairly intense wine has no more than liver-friendly 12% cannot be stressed enough. Silvaners are usually vegetable wines, but this makes me think of curries and stir-fried veggie-ricey things.

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