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Submitted by Alexander Eichener Monday, 01/07/2013

Like many German wine regions, Baden is unduly complex. Even the surroundings of Freiburg show strikingly different styles and characteristics.

What most (no, replace that by "all") foreign observers fail to notice and to assess, is the extremely high quality of many of the cooperatives around here (and not just the Kaiserstuhl cooperatives). Many of them easily attain and surpass VDP level in their top wines, but at a decidedly lower price. Outstanding is the quality and individuality (!) of the wines made in the mega-factory of the Badischer Winzerkeller, Germany's largest cooperative cellar. They work for the number of cooperatives that do not have an own cellar.

Specifically as to Eichstetten, its mini-cooperative makes surprisingly good reds, notably Dornfelder and even Regent (gasp!) of a quality otherwise unheard of in Germany, where both grapes tend to satisfy the cheaper tastes. Another red one from the smaller local Eichstetten wine estate Weishaar was a gift from the police academy (with befitting official label) and was very nice too (Gault-Millau 13,5-14, I would say).

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