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Keller, Riesling trocken, 2008

My last few wine weeks were dominated by Pinot Blanc, so it seemed a good idea to return to the wonderful world of Riesling - in this case to the German wine region of Rheinhessen, where the Keller winery is based. Kellers have an awesome reputation and the demand for their premium wines is high enough that they can sell them in subscription. The wine to introduce today is not one of them, it is Keller's basic Riesling, no subscription necessary and a reasonable price.

Bubbles, lots of bubbles - and a yeasty nose, these are the first two impressions I got from the Keller wine. This made for a fresh, youthful appearance, as if it was a 2009 and not an 08. The Riesling took a little while to open up, slowly becoming less yeasty and much more apple-ly, green apple to be precise. Add to that candied peach, lemon, bitter grapefruit, banana, caramel and the ever so slightest hint of petrol or rather turpentine.

On the tongue Keller's Riesling is very fresh, lots of acidity, again green apple and candied fruit, in a bitter-sweet way. A well-focussed wine that is crisp but with smooth moments because of the right amount of fruit; the finish, for instance, has a bit of juicy peach.

A thoroughly enjoyable, fresh, dry Riesling for a reasonable price, the Keller wine has a lot going for it. Surprisingly, I would actually think it is better to wait another year or perhaps to decant it - it was not quite the easy-to-drink-right-now wine I expected right now, so my overall rating is more based on the perception of quality in what actually is a bit more than a 'basic' wine.

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