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Recently, I have been drinking quite a few Salwey wines, both red and white. So far the wines from the sun-kissed south-west of Germany have entertained me very well, so it was time to try a sparkling Salwey - even more so as I had a few friends over the other night who had not yet tried a German sparkler. Time to change that!

Pop, went the cork and a wonderfully bubbly sparkling wine of the most amazing amber colour foamed into our glasses. I don't think I have seen such a wonderful deep amber in a wine, it was just perfect. One of my British friends described the colour, and this reference may be lost on many, as 'not quite Irn-bru'. This was a most promising start!

Well, it got even better after that as we started to smell the wine. The most enticing, fresh nose I had in a long time, bringing together strawberries, honeydew melon, ripe peaches and other deliciously fruity elements (for instance papaya) with a aromas of honey and the faintest hint of petrol (two text-book elements of aged Riesling); my friend Anna also got horse manure, 'but in a good way', as she hastened to add. It was certainly right that the nose, despite all the fruit and with lots of freshness, had elements of substance and a hint of wisdom that can come with bottle age, all combining in the most enticing combination.

And now the taste. Lots of fresh acidity and also good fruit, particularly unripe strawberries - like when they are still too white -, with a bit of nut in the finish. Well, and a bit of a hole. The wine almost seemed to disappear mid-palate, to only gently resurface in a fairly long, but not too substantial finish.

After this build-up we were a little disappointed, so strong was the contrast between colour and bouquet on the one hand and the weak showing on the tongue. Mind you, it was still pleasant to drink, but just think what could have been! I would pay good money to see and smell this one any time though.