Reinhold Haart, Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, Riesling GG, 2008

Reinhold Haart, Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, Riesling GG, 2008

For over 700 years the Haart family has been making wine in the Mosel valley village of Piesport. While I have no idea what wine they may have grown in the middle ages, these days it is exclusively Riesling - and most of it is sweet or off-dry. A small percentage of the wines are dry though, and this Great Growth (GG) is the top dry wine from the famous Goldtröpfchen (=little drop of gold) vineyard.

The colour is a clear, strawish yellow, more on the gold-dark side perhaps. The nose features cool mineral, herbs (more on the sage-mint side) and a hint of petrol (that almost disappeared on the second day).

And then there is fruit, and quite a bit of it: well defined peach and stone fruit, green fruit and candied lemon - all with a layer of caramelisedness and a hint of paraffin. Even after two days the empty bottle gave off a really pleasant smell of fruit and mineral that would put quite a few other wines to shame.

On the tongue the mineral makes its return, accompanied by tobacco and nice fruit, a little more on the bitter side perhaps. This impression is enhanced by the lively acidity that goes very well with the mineral, giving the wine elegant substance. There is also a really good, lengthy finish with a menthol-sage echo that rinses crisp mineral down your throat.

A wine with a bit of character and substance, yet not without elegance. I particularly liked it straight from the cold fridge, after a bit of air exposure. Yumm!