Three bottles. I managed to get my greedy hands on three bottles of this wine last year - regular readers of the Wine Rambler will know that I am a big fan of the lovely wines Theo Haart creates at the Haart family estate overlooking the Mosel river. Most of the wines are sweet, but every year there are a few bottles of dry wines. 'Großes Gewächs' is German for 'great growth' and indicates that you are drinking a dry wine from a top vineyard as certified by the German Association of Premier Winemakers (VdP). Basically, think of it as a dry Spätlese (late harvest) or Auslese. So three bottles. One went down the drain last weekend because it was corked - it tasted of burnt smoke and vinegar. This means I am now down to two. So let's see what the Haarts have in store for those lucky enough to get a bottle.
The first thing I noticed about the bouquet after opening the bottle was a hint of malt, almost smoky. Mostly though you get apple must, a hint of melon, some herbs and a little rock sugar. It also seems to me I can smell some vegetable vinegar - not at all unpleasant, I have to say, just adding a bit of a rough edge to the nose.
Dry Riesling can be quite edgy, like a strong acidity fist in your mouth. The Haart certainly has some edge, but it is also smooth and round on your tongue, blitzing you with a good dosage of herby mineral and citrus fruit, smoothed out with a hint of peach. And a round finish that feels like a bit of candy in your mouth. Quite lively through its acidity, the Haart manages to combine acidity and edge with the typical Haart smoothness with lots of herbs.
Sadly though, after this there will only be one bottle left. I will try to save this one for my dad - he prefers his Riesling dry...