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J. B. Becker, Eltviller Sonnenberg, Riesling Spätlese, 1988

Contrary to the impression given by my recent confessional posting, I do not generally source my aged Rieslings by going through the neighbours' garbage. Here's one I bought absolutely regularly from a Munich wine shop. J. B. Becker is Rheingau winery known for the uncompromising traditionalism of its winemaking and the longevity of its Rieslings.

So while we are on the topic, I thought another little review may be in order:

And it will have to start promisingly with the beautiful golden colour and the distinctive nose of camomile tea, smoke and slightly burned fruit cake.
On the palate, things get a little more controversial, because here, the petrol and wax notes and a certain dustiness come in, and those are not everybody's cup of tea. I enjoyed them, such as they were, especially combined with the lively acidity and the ripe fruit of yellow plums. Others - we had an extended Wine Rambler committee working on this one - could have done with a little less of the maturity.

To sum up, a seriously aged Riesling that even I would probably have enjoyed a little more four or five years ago, but a gratifying experience nonetheless.

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