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After all this recent writing about German wine guides, we go back to the revisit supermarket wine - only to get seriously confused. Really, this wine is probably the most confusing tasting experience in a long while.

Gewürztraminer is a grape that I mostly know in a French context (Alsace), also from Germany and perhaps Italy. So I was quite pleased to see a reasonably priced Traminer at Sainsburys yesterday - and it is from Cono Sur, who have in the past convinced me with their entry range wines.

At first, the flavour was not great. A little apple acidity with tropic fruit and lychee. In the mouth a strong dry acid kick, fresh and clean, but with noticeable alcohol and some edge. Over time, the wine developed a lot, showing, at various times: floral notes, bitter elderflower, ether, boiled sweet, orange peel, orange-vomit (not unpleasant (!)) marzipan - and a certain mix of richness, acidity and freshness that reminded us of a dry Riesling. However, it also felt a little too fat with alcohol.

Half a day later, the wine seemed more consistent and less fat, with some marzipan coming out in the finish. I do like it, but whether I will revisit it or not I am not so sure, seeing as it was at times a little fat or a little confusing. It is just that for every category this wine could fall into I can think of a wine that does it better than the Cono Sur. Having said that, the price is very good and the wine definitely interesting, so if you are considering a white in this price range you might want to check it out.